Since 6000 BCE, humans have used leaves, flowers, fruits and insects to achieve a vibrant range of hues. Now, synthetic dyes are more accessible than ever...but the unique tints of natural dyes are truly unreplicable!
For our dye playdates, you can join us at any level of experience to dye with provided samples, or bring your own clothing/ fabrics/ If you are bringing your own materials, we encourage you to bring washed natural fibres (like cotton, linen, silk) for the most vibrant and long lasting results.
We recommend keeping notes on your process– results can vary greatly based on the many variables of natural dyeing.
Sustainable harvestWhen foraging, ecological sustainability and reciprocity is of the highest importance. We harvest from plants that are growing abundantly and in small, intermittent amounts. It is good practice to forage from sites from season to season, allowing the plants to rest and regenerate. We withhold from harvesting the most beautiful and healthy dye plants so that they may go to seed and return for years to come.
We harvest our cultivated plants for our public workshops and the Black Community Centre fridge. If you are harvesting from our growing spaces, we ask that you cut a respectful amount from secondary stems–not from the base or root of the plant.
We encourage you to research sustainable practices further before foraging– how can we practice reciprocity?
(BEST PRACTICES for Foraging and Harvesting Indigenous and Wild Plants by: Linda Black Elk and Lisa Iron Cloud)
Fabrics
For natural dyeing, natural fibres will always produce the most vibrant colours. There are two main types of natural fibres; cellulose (plant fibres like cotton, linen, hemp) and protein (animal fibres like wool, cashmere and silk). The type of natural fibre you are using will determine your pretreatment process and results.
Scouring / washing
Scouring is the process of washing off the wax and residues of fibres. New fabrics often contain lots of impurities that can block the full absorption of natural dyes. To pretreat fabric for dyeing, scouring is recommended using a PH neutral soap and soda ash. Maiwa School of Textiles offers free detailed recipes for cellulose and protein fibre scouring.
Mordanting
Mordanting is the pretreatment process that allows natural fibres to bond with dyes more permanently and vibrantly. Cellulose fibres often benefit from a tannin pretreatment, such as boiling the fabric for 1-2 hours with sumac leaves. Mordant treatments will vary for cellulose and protein fibres, as well as the natural dye bath it is being prepared for. We recommend referring to Maiwa’s mordant recipes for detailed instructions.
Dyeing
Stainless steel and enamel pots will produce effective and neutral results for boiling natural dyeing materials. Iron and copper pots may influence the colour of the natural dyes.
Organic materials can be boiled for 30 mins- 2 hours before fabric is added.
Optimal boiling temperatures will vary by organic material. For nuts, galls and powders (ex: acorns) a high boiling temperature is recommended: 90°C
For leaves (ex: sumac leaves): 80°C
For fruits (ex: sumac berries): 60°C
Fabrics and yards should be dampened before being added to the dye bath.
Adding iron (ex: rusty nails) to the mordant or dyeing process will darken and “sadden” colours.
Overdyeing can be done to achieve various deeper shades. If overdyeing with an indigo vat, we recommend indigo dyeing first as the base to preserve the quality of an indigo vat, which can be delicate.
Drying
Air-drying out of direct sunlight is the best option for natural dyeing. Sunlight and machine washing may fade the dye results over time.
Longevity By researching and applying the relevant techniques to your chosen materials, colour-fast and wash-fast results can be achieved. We recommend hand washing dyed materials with PH neutral detergents and air drying for long-lasting results. It is normal for results to shift and fade after wear and time– redyeing can be a fun method to maintain and revive the colours of your garments over time.